Climber Pilz and Schubert in the World Cup squad for the final

The Rock’s seventh-place finish and fifth-place lead resulted in 98.5 points for the Bills after a balanced performance in both areas. The best of the day was Janja Garnbret from Slovenia (175 points), ahead of Japan’s Ai Mori (136.9). “I climbed really safely. It didn’t feel easy and I didn’t hit the limit yet,” explained Biles. “The main thing is in the final, that’s the most important thing. On Friday it’s good if you don’t calculate too much and just focus on climbing.”

In contrast, Schubert was unable to complete the first part of the task as desired, and was only 18th, one place behind Oznik. In his own discipline, the 2018 joint world champion turned up the heat in the evening and finished way like the best of the day in both disciplines, Japan’s Sorato Anraku (184.9 points), with a lead and a score of 144.8. “It reminded me of Tokyo (2021 Olympics, note), where I said in front of the lead, it’s already over. With my back to the wall,” said Schubert, who climbed from last place to bronze in the final at the time. .

“In these situations I feel less pressure and can climb more freely. I had a great mindset, the route looks great and immediately I got into a good flow. I couldn’t have climbed better.” Schubert explained, of course, that he also aims to rock better on Saturday. Finally, as with the women, the top three will receive an entry ticket to the 2024 Olympic Games in Paris. “I want a place in the Olympics and I also have to get a better bouldering run. I have to focus fully on that and then maybe I can get one of three points.”